Before you sign a contract for a new industrial concrete floor, you should feel confident that you’re getting the right type of floor for your needs. Understanding some of the common concrete floor construction terms can give you the assurance that the floor will be durable and long-lasting in accordance with your needs.

 

In particular, we want to explain the most common ways that concrete floors are reinforced to provide strength and reduce cracking.

 

Plain Concrete Floors

 

The simplest concrete floor is made of nothing but concrete. There is no reinforcing steel in a plain concrete slab floor. These floors are typically inappropriate for industrial purposes because they have low tensile strength. This means that when a heavy load compresses the concrete, the concrete directly underneath the load can handle the pressure, but the concrete to the side gets pulled down and cracks.

 

Industrial facilities with adjacent offices or reception areas can save on the cost of materials by choosing a plain concrete floor for such low-impact areas. But even then, some kind of reinforcement is recommended.

 

Steel Mesh Reinforcement

 

A step up from plain concrete floors are those reinforced with one or more layers of steel mesh, which creates a network of squares throughout the concrete. In terms of strength, concrete floors reinforced with steel mesh are still unlikely to hold up to the demands of a typical industrial facility.

 

It’s important to make sure the concrete itself is also the correct thickness, regardless of the type of reinforcement used. For example, a garage that accommodates the average personal vehicle would benefit from steel mesh reinforcement at the typical thickness of 4 inches, but a garage that sees heavier traffic, like dump trucks or garbage trucks, should combine steel mesh with concrete at least 6 inches thick.

 

Reinforcing Bars (Rebar)

 

Using steel bars of various thicknesses is one of the most popular ways to add tensile strength to concrete. The bars are distributed evenly throughout the concrete mold before it is poured, and rebar may even be combined with steel mesh for added stability.

 

The main concern with using rebar is that it is susceptible to corrosion if it routinely comes in contact with water. If the rebar weakens, so will the concrete itself. Sealing the concrete and using professional concrete installation methods that reduce the risk of cracking helps to combat this issue.

 

Fiber Concrete Floors

 

To improve the overall durability of concrete, including resistance to surface abrasions, fibers can be mixed in with the concrete. The fiber is often made of steel, glass or polypropylene. Reinforcing concrete floors with fiber is useful when the concrete may be exposed to high heat, as this method improves concrete’s resistance to thermal shock.

 

As for tensile and compressive strength, it is not the most robust option on this list.

The trick to installing fiber-reinforced industrial concrete floors is achieving uniform distribution of the fiber. From top to bottom and side to side, the fiber must be even and consistent. Fresh concrete can also become difficult to place and maneuver once it is poured with these tough fibers.

 

Prestressed Concrete Floors

 

The final reinforcement method for industrial concrete floors uses steel cables to temporarily pull plates against either side of a slab of concrete. This external pressure helps bind all of the materials together into one strong unit. Once the cables have achieved the desired tension, the plates can be removed and the cables cut. Prestressed concrete floors perform as well as (if not better than) floors reinforced with rebar.

Prestressed industrial concrete floors represent a relatively new technology (gaining ground only in the last 50 years or so) that offers high tensile strength to concrete without requiring mesh or rebar to be embedded within the concrete.

 

What Does It Mean to Prestress Concrete?

 

By itself, concrete has high compressive strength and low tensile strength. This means it can easily withstand weight on top of it but cannot necessarily withstand the pull of gravity. For tall buildings and bridges, adding tensile strength is absolutely necessary or else the structure will collapse.

 

Even for concrete floors, adding tensile strength helps to prevent cracks by increasing the concrete’s ability to withstand tensile pressure – the pressure that threatens to pull material apart rather than compress it together. When a heavy machine rolls over top of concrete, it compresses the concrete in the area directly below it (compression force), which pulls on the concrete surrounding it (tensile force). Concrete with low tensile strength will crack in those areas.

 

In many cases, concrete is reinforced with rebar or wire mesh in order to provide the necessary tensile strength. But another way to add tensile strength is to add external compression to either side of the concrete. This is prestressed concrete.

 

Think about how you might pick up a row of three cardboard boxes while only putting your hands on the outer two. If you apply no inward pressure onto the middle box, you will simply lift up the two outer boxes. But if you press the two boxes onto the middle one, you can successfully lift all three. This is the theory behind prestressed concrete: it stays strong and “lifted” thanks to that external pressure.

 

It’s easy to see how this would come in handy for building bridges, but even in terms of concrete floors, the concrete’s tensile strength increases.

 

How Is Concrete Prestressed?

 

Before the concrete is poured, steel cables are run through the mold and held taught. After the concrete is cast and dried, the cables are attached to plates on either side of the concrete. Pressure is then applied to the cables to pull the plates inward. The amount of pressure applied depends on how much tensile strength is required.

 

Once the pressure is applied, it is retained / maintained within the cables themselves. The ends of the cables can be cut and the plates removed.

 

Advantages of Prestressed Concrete Floors

 

As mentioned previously, one of the main advantages of prestressed concrete floors is less cracking. This means that the floor needs to be repaired less often, saving money not only from the material and labor costs, but also from a factory or company’s potential shutdown time to redo the floor.

 

Cracking also allows water to enter the concrete, which can lead to further cracking problems if the water freezes. However, the main issue with water inside concrete is that if it reaches the steel mesh, rebar or cables, it can cause corrosion. Corroded steel is weak steel and no longer provides the correct tensile strength. Avoiding cracks in the first place ensures the integrity of the steel and therefore the stability of the entire structure.

 

There are other savings to take into account, such as the significantly reduced amount of rebar needed to provide comparable tensile strength. The prestressed concrete technique eliminates the need for large amounts of rebar, instead using the relatively small amount of steel in the cables. Sometimes less concrete is required because the overall strength increases so much, a greater thickness is no longer required.

 

Disadvantages of Prestressed Industrial Concrete Floors

 

Of course, if there were no drawbacks to this technique, it would be used for every project everywhere. However, the equipment necessary to prestress concrete can sometimes be expensive or difficult to maneuver into tight spaces. The technique itself also requires training that many concrete professionals have not yet had the opportunity to attend. Therefore, it may not be available in all areas, nor may it provide enough benefits over traditional reinforced concrete to warrant its use. It all depends on the project’s specifications, the location of installation, and the ability of the concrete team.



In serious cases, you might be able to tell that a floor is uneven just by looking at it. But in most cases, you’ll notice other symptoms, such as unstable machinery, before confirming it with a carpenter’s level. Is fixing an unlevel floor worthwhile? And what methods are used to fix it?

 

The Causes and Hassles of an Unlevel Floor

 

An unlevel floor may point to a serious underlying problem, such as a sinking foundation. It is important to understand the cause of an uneven floor so that you do not simply put a bandage on the problem. If foundation problems are indeed the root cause of an uneven floor, you will end up wasting money on floor repairs that just don’t last, because the foundation will continue to shift until it is stabilized.

 

But sometimes an uneven floor has nothing to do with the foundation and everything to do with how it was installed. Unless the original concrete installation team took the time to carefully level the floor, there may be dips and gaps in the floor from their poor technique. In other cases, the floor may be “flat” but gradually slopes in one direction.

 

But why should you worry about having a level floor in the first place? Is it something you can just live with?

 

Even if an unlevel floor is not caused by a foundation problem, it’s worth fixing, especially in an industrial concrete floor. A severely unlevel floor can present a trip hazard for workers. Even mildly unlevel floors do not provide the type of stability that large machines require. And finally, a sloping floor makes any type of spill a headache to clean up, if not downright dangerous in the case of hazardous materials.

 

Finally, if you plan to install bricks or tiles, the subfloor must be level or the tiles and bricks will be prone to cracking.

 

Using Levelled Wooden Rails as New Concrete Form

 

The first option uses a tried-and-true method that is most appropriate for smaller spaces that need a tune-up. It involves cutting long wooden boards to match the existing contour of the floor on one side, and then cutting the other side of the board to make a perfectly level straight edge. For best results, multiple boards should be laid out and secured to the floor in a way that allows the screed, or concrete levelling tool, to always touch two boards at the same time.

 

Once new concrete is poured in and around the boards until it just covers the top of the boards, the screed is used to level the concrete, using the wooden rails as a guide. Because all of the rails are confirmed to be level, the concrete itself will also be level once the excess is scraped away with the screed.

Grinding Down High Spots

 

If the main problem seems to be that there are high spots on an otherwise even floor, carefully grinding down those high spots can provide a quick fix. Of course, the key word is “carefully,” because if you take too much off, you’ll be dealing with a floor with low spots instead.

 

To identify high and low spots, systematically use a carpenter’s level or straight edge all around the floor, marking high and low spots with chalk. Grind down the high spots and then check the floor again.

 

Using a Self-Levelling Compound

 

Perhaps the most popular technique is to use a self-levelling compound. This is a chemical mixture that settles into low spots and helps achieve a flat, even and level surface.

 

Before using a self-levelling compound, it’s essential to prep the area by grinding away obvious high spots (you will use less product this way and save money), vacuuming away all dust and debris, and applying a coat of primer to ensure that the self-levelling compound adheres to the concrete floor.

 

Then pour the self-levelling compound onto the floor and spread it into all corners with a trowel. Wait to let it settle and dry before applying another coat, if needed.

 

The technique you ultimately choose to level your industrial concrete floor will depend on the size of the floor, your budget and the exact problem you wish to address, but these three techniques are the most common for fixing unlevel floors.

 

There is a lot of preparation that goes into installing a concrete floor: determining the best concrete mixture to use, creating a solid, level surface, building the forms and allowing the concrete to properly cure, etc.  

 

Once you can finally step foot onto your new industrial concrete floor, you might believe you can stop thinking about the floor and move on to other aspects of your construction project. However, there is still one more element to pay attention to: the floor coating.

 

Why Apply a Floor Coating?

 

Concrete floor coatings are not just for show, even though they can end up looking quite beautiful. These coatings protect concrete from moisture, stains and general wear and tear.

 

Although concrete appears to be completely solid, it actually contains a network of tiny pores. When moisture enters these little pockets in the concrete, it can cause the concrete to expand and contract. In turn, this results in cracks within the concrete, or for chunks of the concrete to chip off from the surface in a process called spalling.

 

In other words, everyday exposure to moisture undermines the integrity of the concrete that you devoted so much time, energy and manpower to install. Protecting your investment with a floor coating simply makes sense. Floor coatings provide a barrier against moisture and other stains and may offer other benefits depending on the material. Although their main function is to seal the concrete and extend its life, floor coatings can also add an attractive element to the floor.

 

The Many Options for Epoxy Floor Coatings

 

Perhaps the most common floor coating for industrial concrete floors is epoxy. This durable material comes in different colors and has a smooth, shiny finish.

 

As with concrete, there are many different types of epoxy floor coatings to choose from, each with slightly different properties.

 

• Self-leveling epoxy is among the easiest to spread and level, allowing a smooth and seamless surface to be created with little hassle.
• Mortar epoxy coating is considered one of the strongest epoxy coatings available and can even double as a repair material for cracked concrete.
• A self-dispersing epoxy coating is also incredibly durable and able to withstand regular traffic from heavy machinery, such as forklifts. It also has anti-slip properties.
• Vapor-barrier epoxy coats tend to be used when the concrete represents a foundation for another flooring materials, such as hardwood or carpet. Thus, it is not the most common choice for industrial concrete floors, but it may be used in commercial settings.
• Anti-static epoxy coating can be applied in areas with a high volume of electrical equipment that may be sensitive to static shock.

 

Then there are decorative elements to consider:

 

• A metallic epoxy coating gives the appearance of metals like silver, bronze or copper.
• Graveled epoxy coatings give the appearance of stonework or gravel.
• Epoxy terrazzo floors tend to be the most elaborate decorative option and may contain intricate designs. They often appear on industrial concrete floors in client reception areas.

 

And finally, the carrying liquid used to install the epoxy coat should also be taken into account:

 

• Solvent-based epoxy coatings can be spread extremely thin but must be installed in a well-ventilated area.
• Water-based epoxy coatings are not considered very durable, but do offer waterproof protection against stains.
• 100 percent solid epoxy has no carrying solution and is difficult to install; it’s a job best left to the pros.

 

Other Materials Used to Protect Industrial Concrete Floors

 

Although epoxy is a popular substance for protecting industrial concrete floors, it is not the only option:

 

• A methyl methacrylate (MMA) acrylic coating provides a seamless floor that requires little maintenance.
• A cementitious urethane coating offers a unique antimicrobial option for health centers, restaurants and food processing plants.
• Polyaspartic finishes stand out for their quick application. This is the best solution for industrial centers that cannot afford much downtime for routine floor maintenance. It also does not have much of an odor, which is ideal for areas with poor ventilation.
• Thin film urethane coatings provide excellent stain resistance to even the most abrasive solvents and chemicals. This is typically a clear top coat that can complement other floor coatings and decorative elements.

 

Now that you are aware of the wide range of different protective floor coatings available, let us choose and install the perfect one for your industrial needs.

 



Epoxy floor coatings are applied to industrial concrete floors to not only seal the concrete, but also to extend its life and create a beautiful yet tough surface. But there is a caveat: epoxy floor coatings must be installed correctly in order to reap all of these benefits.

 

All too often, people try to apply an epoxy coating themselves, rushing through the prep work or skipping it altogether. What happens is an ugly, chipping, mismatched floor coating that offers no protection whatsoever.

 

And yet it is so easy to do it right! Yes, it is a little more time consuming to follow all of the proper preparation steps, but you won’t have to touch-up a properly applied epoxy floor coating for years to come.

 

For starters, avoid these 6 mistakes.

 

1. Forgetting to apply a primer first. A primer is what truly allows the epoxy to bind to the concrete. It acts as the glue that holds both materials together. Without primer, the epoxy will not stick as well as it should and may easily flake off or pucker. The primer fills all the microscopic pores in the concrete and helps the epoxy latch on.

 

2. Applying the epoxy to smooth concrete. It is essential for the primer and epoxy to be painted over a rough surface for proper adhesion to take place. Use a floor grinder rather than a shot blaster for best results. In the end, you want to achieve a uniform look to the floor, and a shot blaster is more likely to create irregular holes and pits. A grinder roughens the surface in an even way. Once applied, the epoxy itself will give the floor the smooth look that you expect.

 

3. Applying the epoxy when moisture is present. Epoxy and water simply do not work well together. You must ensure that the floor is completely dry and even that the air is not too humid. Moisture, condensation and humidity will prevent the epoxy from bonding correctly to your industrial concrete floor, resulting in chipping and flaking. Use a dehumidifier to pull excess moisture out of the air, identify and fix and plumbing leaks in the vicinity, and be sure the concrete has had a chance to completely dry out after any mopping or pressure washing.

 

4. Applying epoxy to dirty floors. Epoxy (or rather, the primer) will also not bond well to a dirty surface. Any grime, oil or dust on the concrete floor needs to be scrubbed away. Many people choose to pressure wash the concrete due to its relative efficiency, but improper pressure washing can damage concrete, so be careful. Chemical cleaners can work too but should be rinsed well. If dust is the main problem (and after grinding, dust will certainly be present unless the grinder has a built-in vacuum), thoroughly vacuum the surface to remove all particles.

 

5. Expecting high-quality epoxy to fix low-quality cement. There is no substitute for high-quality cement. Even the best epoxy will not be able to fix a crumbling, cracking industrial concrete floor. If you notice that the epoxy floor coating is cracking, upon closer inspection you may find that the concrete itself is cracking. A sturdy foundation, proper concrete mixture, correct water to cement ratio, and careful curing procedure help create a high-quality concrete surface that is less prone to cracking. Epoxies painted onto these surfaces are more likely to look beautiful and offer protection from stains and wear and tear for a much longer time.

 

6. Applying epoxy to anything other than concrete. Once it dries, epoxy is extremely rigid. So is concrete, so the two work well together. Never apply epoxy to surfaces such as wood or metal. You will be wasting your time and money. Wood expands and bends in response to atmospheric conditions, and metal is flexible and easily bends when pressure is applied. Pairing these mobile surfaces with a decidedly immobile epoxy coating will simply crack the epoxy.

 

Sound Like a Job for the Pros?

 

Sometimes it’s worth the peace of mind to know that a job is being done right. When it comes to applying epoxy, don’t worry about making these mistakes as you try to do it yourself. Give us a call and our team can help your concrete last a long time thanks to an epoxy coating.

There is a lot of preparation that goes into installing a concrete floor: determining the best concrete mixture to use, creating a solid, level surface, building the forms and allowing the concrete to properly cure, etc.  

 

Once you can finally step foot onto your new industrial concrete floor, you might believe you can stop thinking about the floor and move on to other aspects of your construction project. However, there is still one more element to pay attention to: the floor coating.

 

Why Apply a Floor Coating?

 

Concrete floor coatings are not just for show, even though they can end up looking quite beautiful. These coatings protect concrete from moisture, stains and general wear and tear.

 

Although concrete appears to be completely solid, it actually contains a network of tiny pores. When moisture enters these little pockets in the concrete, it can cause the concrete to expand and contract. In turn, this results in cracks within the concrete, or for chunks of the concrete to chip off from the surface in a process called spalling.

 

In other words, everyday exposure to moisture undermines the integrity of the concrete that you devoted so much time, energy and manpower to install. Protecting your investment with a floor coating simply makes sense. Floor coatings provide a barrier against moisture and other stains and may offer other benefits depending on the material. Although their main function is to seal the concrete and extend its life, floor coatings can also add an attractive element to the floor.

 

The Many Options for Epoxy Floor Coatings

 

Perhaps the most common floor coating for industrial concrete floors is epoxy. This durable material comes in different colors and has a smooth, shiny finish.

 

As with concrete, there are many different types of epoxy floor coatings to choose from, each with slightly different properties.

 

• Self-leveling epoxy is among the easiest to spread and level, allowing a smooth and seamless surface to be created with little hassle.
• Mortar epoxy coating is considered one of the strongest epoxy coatings available and can even double as a repair material for cracked concrete.
• A self-dispersing epoxy coating is also incredibly durable and able to withstand regular traffic from heavy machinery, such as forklifts. It also has anti-slip properties.
• Vapor-barrier epoxy coats tend to be used when the concrete represents a foundation for another flooring materials, such as hardwood or carpet. Thus, it is not the most common choice for industrial concrete floors, but it may be used in commercial settings.
• Anti-static epoxy coating can be applied in areas with a high volume of electrical equipment that may be sensitive to static shock.

 

Then there are decorative elements to consider:

 

• A metallic epoxy coating gives the appearance of metals like silver, bronze or copper.
• Graveled epoxy coatings give the appearance of stonework or gravel.
• Epoxy terrazzo floors tend to be the most elaborate decorative option and may contain intricate designs. They often appear on industrial concrete floors in client reception areas.

 

And finally, the carrying liquid used to install the epoxy coat should also be taken into account:

 

• Solvent-based epoxy coatings can be spread extremely thin but must be installed in a well-ventilated area.
• Water-based epoxy coatings are not considered very durable, but do offer waterproof protection against stains.
• 100 percent solid epoxy has no carrying solution and is difficult to install; it’s a job best left to the pros.

 

Other Materials Used to Protect Industrial Concrete Floors

 

Although epoxy is a popular substance for protecting industrial concrete floors, it is not the only option:

 

• A methyl methacrylate (MMA) acrylic coating provides a seamless floor that requires little maintenance.
• A cementitious urethane coating offers a unique antimicrobial option for health centers, restaurants and food processing plants.
• Polyaspartic finishes stand out for their quick application. This is the best solution for industrial centers that cannot afford much downtime for routine floor maintenance. It also does not have much of an odor, which is ideal for areas with poor ventilation.
• Thin film urethane coatings provide excellent stain resistance to even the most abrasive solvents and chemicals. This is typically a clear top coat that can complement other floor coatings and decorative elements.

 

Now that you are aware of the wide range of different protective floor coatings available, let us choose and install the perfect one for your industrial needs.

 

Epoxy floor coatings are applied to industrial concrete floors to not only seal the concrete, but also to extend its life and create a beautiful yet tough surface. But there is a caveat: epoxy floor coatings must be installed correctly in order to reap all of these benefits.

 

All too often, people try to apply an epoxy coating themselves, rushing through the prep work or skipping it altogether. What happens is an ugly, chipping, mismatched floor coating that offers no protection whatsoever.

 

And yet it is so easy to do it right! Yes, it is a little more time consuming to follow all of the proper preparation steps, but you won’t have to touch-up a properly applied epoxy floor coating for years to come.

 

For starters, avoid these 6 mistakes.

 

1. Forgetting to apply a primer first. A primer is what truly allows the epoxy to bind to the concrete. It acts as the glue that holds both materials together. Without primer, the epoxy will not stick as well as it should and may easily flake off or pucker. The primer fills all the microscopic pores in the concrete and helps the epoxy latch on.

 

2. Applying the epoxy to smooth concrete. It is essential for the primer and epoxy to be painted over a rough surface for proper adhesion to take place. Use a floor grinder rather than a shot blaster for best results. In the end, you want to achieve a uniform look to the floor, and a shot blaster is more likely to create irregular holes and pits. A grinder roughens the surface in an even way. Once applied, the epoxy itself will give the floor the smooth look that you expect.

 

3. Applying the epoxy when moisture is present. Epoxy and water simply do not work well together. You must ensure that the floor is completely dry and even that the air is not too humid. Moisture, condensation and humidity will prevent the epoxy from bonding correctly to your industrial concrete floor, resulting in chipping and flaking. Use a dehumidifier to pull excess moisture out of the air, identify and fix and plumbing leaks in the vicinity, and be sure the concrete has had a chance to completely dry out after any mopping or pressure washing.

 

4. Applying epoxy to dirty floors. Epoxy (or rather, the primer) will also not bond well to a dirty surface. Any grime, oil or dust on the concrete floor needs to be scrubbed away. Many people choose to pressure wash the concrete due to its relative efficiency, but improper pressure washing can damage concrete, so be careful. Chemical cleaners can work too but should be rinsed well. If dust is the main problem (and after grinding, dust will certainly be present unless the grinder has a built-in vacuum), thoroughly vacuum the surface to remove all particles.

 

5. Expecting high-quality epoxy to fix low-quality cement. There is no substitute for high-quality cement. Even the best epoxy will not be able to fix a crumbling, cracking industrial concrete floor. If you notice that the epoxy floor coating is cracking, upon closer inspection you may find that the concrete itself is cracking. A sturdy foundation, proper concrete mixture, correct water to cement ratio, and careful curing procedure help create a high-quality concrete surface that is less prone to cracking. Epoxies painted onto these surfaces are more likely to look beautiful and offer protection from stains and wear and tear for a much longer time.

 

6. Applying epoxy to anything other than concrete. Once it dries, epoxy is extremely rigid. So is concrete, so the two work well together. Never apply epoxy to surfaces such as wood or metal. You will be wasting your time and money. Wood expands and bends in response to atmospheric conditions, and metal is flexible and easily bends when pressure is applied. Pairing these mobile surfaces with a decidedly immobile epoxy coating will simply crack the epoxy.

 

Sound Like a Job for the Pros?

 

Sometimes it’s worth the peace of mind to know that a job is being done right. When it comes to applying epoxy, don’t worry about making these mistakes as you try to do it yourself. Give us a call and our team can help your concrete last a long time thanks to an epoxy coating.

 



 

Whether you’re a DIYer or a professional builder, it’s important to have a detailed budget outlined before you dive into the work. There’s no worse feeling than beginning a project and then having to let it sit unfinished due to a lack of funds.

 

Concrete prices tend to have people scratching their heads. How much concrete is needed for a particular purpose? What kind of concrete should you get? Do you need to have the concrete delivered in a ready mix truck, or can you buy it by the bag and mix it by hand? Will you need to color or stamp the concrete?

 

All of these considerations can drive up the cost of concrete, or at least the cost of your overall project. To help you come up with an estimation for your concrete needs, we’ve put together this guide to teach you how to calculate concrete requirements and determine the concrete cost per yard.

 

But first, we must start with a caveat: the concrete prices mentioned in this guide might be different to what is available in your area. They serve as a guideline for your initial estimates, but in order to really nail down an accurate budget, you’ll need to consult your local supplier. The cost of concrete varies by location according to the rules of supply and demand.

 

With that in mind, let’s talk about the first thing you need to know: what type of concrete does your project require?

 

Concrete Prices Depend on the Type of Concrete

 

The most basic concrete mixtures are composed of Portland cement, aggregate (rough materials such as gravel or sand) and water. But depending on the purpose of the concrete, different materials can be added to the mixture to give it various properties, such as slowing or increasing the drying time, affecting the viscosity to make it easier to move around, or simply making it resistant to water damage.

 

Determining the right concrete mixture for a specific purpose is an art (or rather, a science) known as mix design. The extra ingredients added to the basic components of cement, aggregate and water are known as admixtures.

If you are installing a patio, driveway or concrete slab, chances are you don’t need to worry about admixtures. Admixtures are typically needed for special circumstances.

 

But one thing to keep in mind is whether or not you plan to stamp the concrete, as this often requires a slower drying time and thus needs an admixture to affect the concrete’s water retention. The weather when pouring concrete can also make a difference in drying time.

 

Also decide whether you will be able to pour the concrete directly where it is needed, or whether you will need to move it around once it has been poured. Concrete quickly becomes tough to move the more you move it, but in some cases it is impossible to avoid transferring the concrete. An admixture that improves the workability of the concrete can be extremely helpful.

 

A good rule of thumb is to talk about your needs with your local ready-mix supplier, such as Tex Con Ready Mix, to determine whether any admixtures are necessary for your concrete installation. You will also be able to get a cost estimate at the same time.

 

How to Calculate Concrete Cost

 

When you talk to your local ready mix supplier about the type of concrete you need, they’ll likely give you the concrete cost per yard or per cubic yard. But how many cubic yards will your project require?

 

A cubic yard is calculated by multiplying the length, width and depth of your concrete in feet, then dividing by 27. To help you accurately calculate concrete cost, you can use Tex Con Ready Mix’s concrete cost calculator. You may need to make some sketches and do some additional math in order to estimate how many cubic yards are in an irregularly shaped driveway or patio.

 

This brings up another important point: how thick should your concrete be? A general rule of thumb is 4 inches for an average patio or driveway. If you foresee any reason why your concrete slab may need to hold up to heavy loads, like a dump truck or other heavy machinery, increase the thickness to 5 or 6 inches. For technical purposes, it’s best to consult with an engineer to be certain the concrete is strong enough.

 

Now that you know how thick your concrete will be, you can complete the equation to determine the number of cubic yards. Finally, add about 5% to the total yardage in order to have a small amount of extra concrete on hand in the event of spillage.

 

Now, for the price. According to the National Ready Mixed Concrete Association, concrete prices in the U.S. in 2014 averaged out to $98.23 per cubic yard.

 

What Else Do You Need to Pour Concrete?

 

Now that we’ve talked about the cost of concrete itself, you should have a decent idea of how much you’ll spend on raw materials. But if we stop there and don’t consider the other costs associated with pouring concrete, your final bill will look very different.

 

Thanks to its versatility and viscosity, pouring concrete is not the most challenging aspect of installation. Preparing the site to receive and support the concrete is a task for a patient and precise person. Cutting corners at this stage will result in subpar concrete, but that is another topic altogether. In short, there are labor and material costs that must be taken into account to get a true picture of how much concrete costs.

 

Here are some other services or products that you may need to purchase, depending on your goals:

 

• Land grading. You’ll either need to rent the machinery to do it yourself, or hire a professional. Land grading is an important step when building anything from a simple patio to a concrete slab intended for a barn, garage, home, etc. Grading ensures that a gentle slope will carry rainwater away from the concrete. Whenever the soil underneath the concrete or the concrete itself experiences extreme changes in moisture, cracking is prone to occur. Therefore, grading not only prevents the future structure from flooding, but also keeps the integrity of the concrete intact. As a professional service that requires technical knowledge and access to machinery, land grading can easily cost upwards of $50 an hour.
• Compaction equipment. Compacting the soil reduces the likelihood of it shifting in the future, thereby reducing the likelihood of cracks occurring in the concrete. This can often be done by the same contractor who grades the surface. If not, you’ll need to rent compaction equipment to do it yourself. These machines are about the size of a lawn-mower and are perfect for smaller jobs. Depending on where you live, you can typically rent one for about $75 per day.
• Gravel or sand for the subbase. The soil underneath any structure needs to be of the same consistency and easily compacted. Amending the soil with gravel or sand helps to achieve a more uniform subbase. Once the layer of gravel or sand is spread over the top of the compacted soil, it too will need to be compacted.
• Concrete forms. Because concrete is in a liquid state when it is initially poured, forms must be set up around the perimeter. Forms are usually comprised of wood and must be installed in such a way that allows no concrete to leak out of the bottom or between the joints. The forms also need to be braced to prevent the heavy concrete from bowing the wood. Make sure the wood is tall enough, too!
• Rebar. Preventing concrete from cracking is the number-one goal of anyone who works with it, whether professional or amateur. But the truth is, all concrete will crack. The key to keeping those cracks small and inconsequential is to use reinforcement. Rebar is the most common material and can be installed as rods or mesh sheets in order to provide greater stability, tension and strength. It is typically $0.15 to $0.30 per square foot.
• Concrete delivery. Depending on the amount of concrete you need, it is sometimes easiest to just have it delivered in a ready-mix truck. For best results, concrete will be poured at the same time over a large area in order to have consistent drying time. It will also allow you to get a cohesive finish over the entire surface. Making and pouring small batches on your own results in a patchwork appearance, not to mention a patchwork integrity within the concrete itself. The cost of concrete delivery depends on how far the driver has to travel and how much time he or she has to spend on site.
• Concrete stamps (optional). If you are pouring concrete for a patio, driveway or other structure where the concrete will be admired, you may opt to stamp the concrete. This allows you to create the appearance of tile, brick or stone without the added costs associated with those materials. For a DIY project, a single stamp mat could easily cost around $100.
• Color (optional). You can add color to your concrete in two ways, either by adding a powder to the concrete itself when it is mixed, or by using chemical washes and powders sprinkled on top of the concrete after the finishing process.

 

Cost of a Concrete Slab

 

Let’s take all of this information and make a sample budget to determine the cost of a concrete slab, which we plan to install ourselves in order to save on labor costs. Our slab will be 36 feet by 48 feet and will serve as the base for a barn. We might have to bring a tractor into our barn at some point, so we plan to make our concrete slab 6 inches thick.

 

First, we need to convert everything to feet (ft). 6 inches = 0.5 feet. Now we can multiply 0.5 ft X 36 ft X 48 ft = 864 cubic feet. To convert that to cubic yards, we need to divide our total by the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard, which is 27. That gives us 864 / 27 = 32 cubic yards.

 

We’re going to anticipate that some of the concrete might spill outside of our concrete forms, so we’ll add 5% of 32 to our calculated cubic yards, giving us a grand total of 33.6 cubic yards of concrete to make the foundation for our barn.

 

Our local ready-mix concrete supplier sells standard ready mix (no special admixtures are needed for our concrete slab) at the national average of $98.23 per cubic yard, which means it will cost $3,300.53 for the concrete.

 

Now, for other requirements:

• Because we don’t want our barn to flood, we need to grade the land around it. Our local land grading company charges $60 an hour, and they estimate 4 hours to grade the area we need, so the total comes to $240.
• We also need a delivery of gravel to serve as our subbase, which costs $15 per cubic yard, or about $240 if we only need a 3-inch layer to achieve uniform stabilization in this scenario.
• To rent a compactor for 2 days from our local hardware store costs about $150.
• The rebar mesh we need is sold for $0.20 per square foot, so we get it for around $345.
• To create our wooden concrete forms, we estimate a need for 23 8-foot-long 2 X 6s, which we get locally for $8 each, costing a total of $184.

 

Fortunately, our local ready mix supply company offers free delivery, and our concrete slab does not need to be decorative. In the end, our concrete project costs about an additional $1200 above and beyond the cost of the concrete itself.

 

Using your own specifications, draw up a detailed list of requirements and get estimates on everything in order to see how much your project will cost. Because the price of concrete, gravel, lumber and even rebar vary by region, there’s no way to give a detailed cost estimate that will fit every reader. But we hope this guide has opened your eyes to some of the hidden costs of installing concrete, and will help you make a useful budget for your next project.

 

Slab foundations are a popular foundation style for homes, outbuildings and commercial buildings. After the soil has been leveled and compacted, a thick concrete slab is poured. To provide additional structural integrity to slab foundations, they are also reinforced with a network of rebar.

Common problems associated with slab foundations include:

• Settling – the ground underneath the foundation shrinks and lowers the support of the foundation.
• Upheaval – the ground underneath the foundation expands and raises the support of the foundation
• Cracks – in cases of extreme settling or upheaval, large cracks can occur in the concrete slab, inviting water, bugs and debris to settle within

These problems can largely be avoided by consulting a professional to oversee your concrete slab foundation from its initial design, all the way through to the final checks.

Choosing the correct concrete mix like Houston Ready Mix is important, as is understanding the role of moisture content and of the composition of the soil in providing stability to the slab foundation. Well-mixed concrete will diminish the chances of there being a dry spot within the concrete, which could, for example, contribute to cracking.

Even a seemingly minor problem can grow into a more costly fix over time, so be sure to hire a professional who will go the extra mile in ensuring your concrete slab foundation is properly designed, poured and cured.